Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
